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You don’t have to use a table saw for long to realize the importance of having nice outfeed support when ripping longer material. Can help some, but they can be annoying to setup for different length boards and lighter weight ones have a tendency to tip over at exactly the wrong time. So to solve this problem and to replace a small workbench that has seen better days, I decided to build a large workbench which would provide outfeed support for boards up to 8’ long.Since I’ll be building a second Roubo-style workbench for hand-tool work, I wanted this one to work well for assembling and finishing projects. This meant having a large, flat top that wouldn’t immediately soak up paint and glue. And in order to meet the outfeed support requirements, I wanted it to have adjustable feet so that the top could be leveled with my table saw. I also couldn’t pass up the opportunity for more storage, so I decided to include two large shelves. After a little design work in SketchUp, it was time to start building!
I started by cutting the boards to rough length at the miter saw, and then I headed over to the jointer and joined one face and edge on the 2”x8” boards. Since the 2”x10” board was wider than my jointer, I joined an edge on it and ripped it in half first at the table saw.Once I had joined a face and an edge on all the boards, I ran them through the thickness planer until they were approximately 1.25” thick. I then ripped them to their final width at the table saw and headed back to the miter saw to cut all the parts to final length. I started assembling the legs first. This was just a matter of applying glue to one edge and then clamping the two pieces together to form an 'L'.While the glue on the legs dried, I used a small to drill holes in the parts for the shelves and top.I then used a to hold the parts square to each other while I screwed them together. My goal here was to make sure the tops of all the frame pieces were flush so the shelves and top would lie flat.To finish up with the frames, I predrilled countersunk holes where they would later attach to the legs.
For the two shelf tops, I used 1/2” thick MDF. After cutting the pieces to size with my circular saw, I predrilled holes and attached them to the frame using 1-1/4” screws in the corners and middle. This was done so that the screws would be hidden once the legs were attached.On one shelf I was able to simply use my random orbit sander to sand the MDF flush, but on the other one I had to use a flush-trim bit in my router. Once that was done, I rounded over the top edges a bit with my sander just to help prevent it from chipping out.To finish the shelf tops I used two coats of boiled linseed oil since I liked the darker look that it gave (and I was trying to get rid of an old bottle). Unfortunately, it didn’t seem to help prevent drips from soaking in, so I added a thin coat of paste wax and then buffed it as much as I could. Now that the shelves were finished, it was time to finally assemble the table.
I started by marking on one leg where the top and each shelf would attach. I then transferred those marks to all the other legs.Next, I spaced the rear two legs apart on the floor and, after clamping the frame in place, I screwed them together using 2” decking screws. I also went ahead and attached the middle leg and then repeated the process for each shelf.
Note that I wanted to maximize the storage space, so I moved the bottom shelf down as far as possible and since the top will have roughly a 5” overhang, a toe-kick isn’t necessary.In order to hide the adjustable feet, I drilled an access hole for each in the bottom shelf. This makes it possible to adjust the height with an Allen wrench once the workbench is complete. I then marked and predrilled where each foot would go and screwed them in place.I attached the front legs the same way, making sure the marks lined up properly with the top and shelves. Then I attached the remaining three feet to the bottom shelf, and with a little help from Carrie it was finally time to flip it upright! I wanted the top to be pretty thick, but I also wanted to use T-molding to protect the edges and that meant a maximum thickness of 1.25” as that was the limit of my router bit.
I also wanted to keep the top as smooth as possible and hide any screw holes to avoid snags when using it as an outfeed table.To do this I started by clamping a 3/4” and 1/2” piece of MDF together so that I could cut both pieces at once. After positioning the 3/4' piece on the workbench frame, I then countersunk screws into it roughly every 10' and sanded all the holes flush with a sanding block.With help from Carrie, we quickly spread glue on the top of the 3/4” piece of MDF. For this we used wood glue since it has a bit longer open time.We then laid the 1/2” piece of MDF on top and once it was lined up nicely, I added some weights to the top and every clamp that I could find.
I spent a while debating cutting the miter gauge grooves in my nice new table top. After convincing myself that it was the right thing to do, I transferred the locations to the top and widened them by 1/4”. This extra width makes it easier to align the bench top grooves to the grooves on the table saw, allows for room for the guide washer on the end of my miter gauge, and prevents any issues if either table gets bumped out of alignment a little.I then clamped down two straight scrap pieces as guides making sure that they were square to the back edge and parallel to each other. Next, I routed the grooves in two passes to get the desired depth. I cut the grooves roughly 18' long to be able to accommodate a wide table saw sled in a future project.
Once those were finished, I added some more boiled linseed oil and polyurethane to the grooves.The last photo shows how the miter gauge interacts with the grooves in the outfeed table. The last step to completing the top was to install the T-molding. After doing some tests, I decided to use a little Titebond wood glue to secure the molding as it seemed to work the best. I used several small strips of painters tape to hold it in place while the glue dried.To go around the corners, I cut 4-5 small notches in the molding which allowed it to bend nicely. Then it was just a matter of working around the entire edge a few feet at a time applying glue and then tape. When I reached the end, I used a pair of sharp scissors to cut the molding to its final length.Once the glue dried, I came back with a sharp knife and finished up by cutting out notches in the T-molding for the miter gauge. Finally, all that was left to do was to move the table into position and adjust the leveling feet so that it was just a fraction under the height of the table saw’s top.
I then double checked it in several places along the table to verify that there would be no problems when using the saw.After all the work, I think it turned out pretty well, and I’m definitely looking forward to using it. The extra storage should help considerably as well!I already have several small upgrades in mind for this bench, and I’ll be building a more traditional, Roubo-style workbench very soon.
Be sure to check out our other Instructables and our website as well. And if you have any questions or comments, please leave them below. Great timing! We're actually editing a video showing a few upgrades/additions to the table, and we just installed a set of Rockler's Workbench Casters with Quick Release Plates in it. For some reason the casters are 25% off now and you can get the plates separately - which go on sale for $20.Since we're also finishing up a Roubo-style workbench (and actually building another later this year), this seemed like the best option. On sale, the workbench-casters aren't much more than buying a decent set of regular casters and then it's only $20 or so to add the quick plates to the other workbenches. (Or you could just mount the casters to one bench if that's all you had without the plates.)My outfeed table with shelves mostly filled weighs probably 350lbs now.
And with just a little help lifting up the top, it's easy to engage these casters and then it is very smooth (1 finger) pushing it around. Hi, sorry I already have a huge back log of projects to build.
I can say that the cost for materials was right at $150 + the cost of the leg levelers (which I managed to get on sale).If you don't need the depth for outfeed support, the shelves could be made 24' deep and save $24 (2 shelves from one 4'x8' piece of MDF). And if you were ok with a 24' deep top, you could save another $33 by doubling up a 1/2' piece of MDF and going with 1' T-molding.
So that puts it under $100 + leg levelers if you need them.
I have one from Lee Valley that has worked very well for me. It might be lighter weight than you want though.
One nice thing about it is the head is adjustable for level. It also uses casters, instead of steel rollers, so the roller doesn't need to be at exactly 90° to the travel of the wood.I have a couple of single roller stands that were made by Record, they have a limited usable height range.
I also have a cast four roller stand with 4 legs instead of the 3 you have shown. The biggest problem with it (and I expect the one you've shown) is getting the damn thing lined up and level.
I have a crowded shop, so the stands get put away when no longer needed. I also have a floor that varies 3 or 4' in level in about 1200 square feet. There are roller stands that are about 6'-0' long when extended,close up accordion style to less than 2'0'.
Another type of stand uses balls instead of a roller. Some stands use one roller,others up to three.I prefer a single roller on a sawhorse,the sawhorse is less likely to knock over than stands.If the saw will stay in the shop, then no stand at all.I would then build an outfeed table.As far as I am concrned,all roller stands are a PITA.I have used all of the stands except the accordion type. My recommendation for a portable stand if you do not wish to use a sawhorse would be the single roller as pictured in the link.mike. I have one of the Lee Valley roller stands as well that I occasionally use on my jointer and even more rarely use on my tablesaw. It works much better than the straight roller type for the reason mentioned above.
But I think building a proper outfeed table is much better than a stand. I have a 4' long table attached to the back of my saw (the 2 legs are adjustable) I don't have to think about a stand unless I am cutting longer than 9'. I think the common cabinet saw without an outfeed table is too dangerous, the European saws are better but if you are doing much ripping a table is still the way to go. I have one of the Lee Valley roller stands as well that I occasionally use on my jointer and even more rarely use on my tablesaw. It works much better than the straight roller type for the reason mentioned above. But I think building a proper outfeed table is much better than a stand.
Does anyone sell a flip up outfeed table that you attach to the rear of the saw? Fold it down when not in use. Couldn't get more than 32 inches extension that way but would be way better than nothing. Come to think of it, a table like that might get in the way of my dust collection exhaust port however. I have never liked rollers for table saw or jointer applications.
The 90˚ thing is a problem, as well as material drooping and even slightly out of level floors. A hinged table extension with a gatefold leg would be far better solution to me. I just use an old 3-0 x 7-0 commercial door for outfeed on my Panhans slider. But the gatefold accommodates all sizes of stuff and can be dropped out of the way if need be. I used to have an old Tannewitz J that I had gatefold outfeed and gatefold left extension before I got the slider. My favorite system was what I used when I was working in Ireland.
The outfeed table was a plenum connected to the compressor and the top drilled like an air-hockey table. He had three gates to shut the table into 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and whole size. When we were doing a lot of sheet goods, it really cut down the drag. I never thought it was worth the trouble but it was a neat system.
Uses a pile of air too.Michael. One way to get around the alignment issue is to have a roller stand or table extension that is fixed to the saw in some way, either hinged or loose and able to drop into an attaching slot or attached with some pins, etc.
This maintains not only alignment but also the footprint of the saw, if that is an issue.Of course a solid outfeed table is the best solution, but that wasn't included in your question and there are many good resons why an outfeed table won't work in every situation. Almost equally good is to make a rolling work table (again assuming you have the room) that is the same height as the saw table.Steve. All 4 legs are independently adjustable for height, so you can get it as level and true to the saw top as you want.KenHave you tried this? I have 4 oversized levelers in one of my stands. Each one has a wing nut to turn the leveler, and another to lock it. It's a pain in the ass to do.
You are adjusting something at ground level to line up with something around 3' above the ground. Beside side to side level, you also have to deal with front to back level.Attached to the saw seems like a much less stressful way to go about this. Looks good (except it's probably Chinese) What do you think of sa100's warning regarding aligning the stand with the saw table for a parallel roller type of stand?I hate movable rollers just for that reason, they are a pain to get aligned properly and if you don't have them done right they cause more harm than good and then when you do get them aligned they get knocked around. Something fastened to the saw or a swivel rollers is the way to go.I just have a table with a MDF extension to it and never have felt a need to have a roller extension, it slides just great for everything I do on the saw. Have you tried this? I have 4 oversized levelers in one of my stands. Each one has a wing nut to turn the leveler, and another to lock it.
It's a pain in the ass to do. You are adjusting something at ground level to line up with something around 3' above the ground. Beside side to side level, you also have to deal with front to back level.Attached to the saw seems like a much less stressful way to go about this.To level it I just clamp two long metal channels (or 2x4s) on the table so they extend out over the rollers. One over each end of the rollers. I then just raise each leg until the rollers just touch the channels. It may take a couple of go-rounds the first time.
Fortunately I have a level floor.Ken. Here ya go.I have a full table around my table saw so I don't need a roller but I think the best one I have seen is the one posted by 310guy.On another note, I always hated adjusting the roller stand for my band saw and cold saw. I would set the material on the saw and onto the stand and then try to adjust it level, what a pain.
Went to Harborfreight (I know this place shouldn't be mentioned here) and bought a drop leg trailer jack rated for 3500 lbs for $33.00. Mounted a roller on the top and a base on the other end and I have the best adjustable stand I have ever used.
The jack has a crank for adjusting the heigth. Set the metal on the saw and stand and just crank the stand to the right heigth so the material is level. Years ago I made a telescoping 3 leg support with an angle iron for the top where a roller would go. Then I clamp a waxed, rounded edge piece of oak to the sticking up vertical angle leg. Hence, the board can be leveled by eyeball as it is clamped/Later I decided to buy one of the Records mentioned above. I have the same problem with it often not being high enough.
Also, it is not a true tripod, and on some areas of an uneven floor will not set with any stability. Also hate it for same reason mentioned by others, it forces the work away or angles it into the fence of any machine where it is not dead nuts perpendicular to the travel closely parallel to the top, and level as well. My old stand with the waxed oak board works better. FWIW, the Record actually can be leveled since the extension pole is angled to the base. You turn the base and compensate by turning the pole until the top is level.
Then you work backwards again, and try to get the top level with the base turned as necessary, and have the roller come out dead perpendicular to the travel path. Lots of nuisance, along with a fundamentally unstable platform for any but light work, and often too short. I hate both stands for machine support, but in a pinch, each has been useful at times over the years. (Useful, not pleasant)smt.